August 17, 2012

Continuing the Conversation: Blogs & Beauty Standards

Photo by A. Frumberg for The Glitter Guide

Preface: This is in response to the Independent Fashion Bloggers posts, here and here, on Bloggers and Body Image, and the conversations that followed. Davies has since also posted an apology. It is clear that the original post was not malicious, but it has certainly unearthed some important conversations.

I have a lot of respect for IFB,  and have been honored to be featured on the site, work in collaboration with their teams, and speak at IFB Con (both last year and this upcoming season). They provide an important platform to help bloggers realize their own value, promote each other, and facilitate a network that all fashion bloggers can participate in. Even if I don't always agree with the points of view that each individual writer possesses, I appreciate that they are able to get the ball rolling on conversations that are important to have - and sometimes difficult, even painful.

For as long as blogs have been around, (and before, since the fashion blogger trope, at least in my experience, began on the fashion communities of LiveJournal), I've felt that they've played an important role in offering an alternative to mainstream media. There is literally a style or fashion blog to serve as a platform and voice for every niche, every type of individual, every person that has been excluded from the mainstream, dominant fashion conversation. There are style blogs based on religious values - whether you're Muslim or an Orthodox Jew or Mormon. There are petite blogs and plus size blogs and curvy blogs. Octogenarian blogs. Transfeminine blogs. Feminist blogs. Tomboy blogs. Butch blogs. You get the point. 

But, where these varied voices become disenfranchised is when the blogging world, in all it's diversity, begins to mimic the values of traditional media -- a world where thinness, whiteness, and an appearance of wealth are continually prized and rewarded. I might not fit a physical ideal put forward by traditional fashion media (and I'm well aware that I don't,) but I do possess other privileges that make me, or my blog, appealing to the mainstream; ignoring this would be irresponsible of me. It is true that many people turn to blogs for aspirational content; as much as any other type of media - movies, television, etc., blogs can be a place to turn for escapism, and a "reality" that is alternate to our own, but this should not get lost in the very important place of having varied and diverse bloggers promoted across blogging networks. 

The missing key to this entire conversation seems to be the business of blogging, something that seems ironic since so much of IFB's platform is based on the ability for bloggers to monetize and build careers from their online presence. In order for someone to truly capitalize and reap the benefits of blogger-as-business, they need to firstly generate traffic, and secondly, and perhaps more importantly, fit an image and ideal that brands and businesses want to be aligned with. There are very few exceptions to this, like say, Tavi of Style Rookie or Susie Lau of Style Bubble or Gabi of Gabi Fresh, all of whom have managed to remain themselves and succeed without playing into a role or archetype that is beneficial to brands. But by and large, the most successful bloggers, have become successful because of their thin, pretty privileges which provide an alternative to traditional models. 
Why should a brand hire or collaborate with a traditional model when they can get a personality with their own following and audience to work with them for the same (or less) money? Why hire a traditional stylist when a blogger with an enormous audience can tweet, instagram, and blog while doing it - all while looking flawless? It's smart, it's strategic, but as far as the diversity of blogs goes, and which bloggers stand to "succeed," - it mostly continues to reinforce the same ideals put forth by mainstream fashion media.
More brand partnerships lead to more capital, which leads to more opportunities to reinvest into a blog. IFB called for higher quality content from the people who stray from the thin and pretty (or, as the original post by Davies put it, "disciplined,") ideal,  but truly - that can only come with resources and time, both of which are costly. But, then, the assertion that quality blogs written by people who stray from the norm - blogs with content rivaling "top tier" bloggers, to say these just aren't there, or don't exist? False. They absolutely do. There are so many of them that I couldn't even begin to list them all, because it's so freaking overwhelming. 

I'm not interested in pointing fingers at who bears the responsibility for promoting a more diverse group of bloggers, but I'd love to reference Audre Lorde; It is not the responsibility of the oppressed to educate the oppressor about their mistakes. Lorde was obviously not talking about fashion blogs, but I think the entire blogging community, myself included, could take something away from this.

I'm looking forward to continuing this conversation, and would love to hear what you all think of this issue. I will be moderating a panel at IFB Conference on "Bringing Bravery Back to Blogging" and am hoping to continue the conversation there, too.


  1. I am SO glad you wrote this Nicolette, and you said many of the things I was going to say in my original post. My friend, who is not a blogger, read it and didn't fully understand why I was talking so much about money and advertisers so I edited to have it make sense to all my readers. It is not the fault of the "top tier" bloggers, or the fault of IFB that the blogs who get commercial success all look similar... and look a lot like models. It has been proven that commercial appeal brings the revenue dollars. But the tide is shifting, and I think we bloggers are the reason. And we need to continue that momentum. By you writing this, you are helping the cause,a nd I am so glad you added your voice!

  2. So glad as well to see your post on this topic. I was wondering if you would say something.

    I especially appreciate when you said, " But, then, the assertion that quality blogs written by people who stray from the norm - blogs with content rivaling "top tier" bloggers, to say these just aren't there, or don't exist? False. They absolutely do. There are so many of them that I couldn't even begin to list them all, because it's so freaking overwhelming."

    The most beautiful thing about blogging is it inclusivity and we should raise that up, not squash it. If anything, I hope this makes people seek out blogs from different niches, not just ones that huge brands support.

  3. ding ding ding! i love it when someone is willing to take a stand. i respect you even more now.
    the only thing i would even add to this conversation - when do we start to hold brands accountable for their actions, like when pr people admit that they want to downplay the fact that they sell certain sizes? (i don't know if it's true or not, but i've heard that both michael kors and h&m don't really care about the success or failure of plus lines, and thus, choose not to do anything with them.) or brands consistently choosing a certain type of person, despite the quality content from other types of people being available? i'm not trying to point fingers, but i guess how do we get results? this seems like a situation where voting with your dollar can actually do something, i guess i'm just wondering where i should make it rain and where i should try to start a drought.

    you are so cool.


  4. great post and encouragement to use this as a well to facilitate discussion.

  5. H&M's PR team is fantastic, and they actually are currently VERY invested in promoting their plus line. Full disclosure, obviously, I have worked with them and know they are intended on continuing to develop H&M+. Having seen clothes that are on the way, I know the design side is also improving.

    I do agree that brands should be held accountable. After all, it is our dollars that is going towards building them. Brands like Michael Kors, who have an ENORMOUS distribution of their plus line, could absolutely stand to invest a little more time, effort, and energy into promoting it- rather than pretending it doesn't exist.

    As for results, it's a catch 22. Abstaining from buying/participating with brands will ultimately end with those brands closing their extended sizes/plus divisions. I think using online platforms, twitter, facebook, etc., and speaking directly to brands and making your voice heard is the most effective way to tell them who you are and what you want and that yes, your voice and your visibility and your disposable income also matter.

  6. Very well said. I'm wondering what the face of blogging is going to look like a year from now. The monetization of everything (and I don't begrudge anyone for doing so) has become (to me) almost excessive & I think it's causing people to compromise who they are. Fantastic write-up!

  7. (not to get off topic, but thank you for sharing your H&M+ info, because there seems to be a lot of negative attention going around at the moment and they hadn't really addressed it publicly)

    i appreciate the thoughtfulness of your answer and i forgot to mention in my first comment, but <333333 forever for using Audre Lorde in a post about fashion blogging.

  8. ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT. Very well-said, and I appreciate this so, so much.

  9. love this post! :)

  10. great post....inpiring

  11. You make some good points. I was really looking forward to joining the conversation at your panel, but alas it's pretty expensive to get in!

  12. great response, nicolette. and i love include that audre lorde quote.

  13. Fantastic post. Really, really fantastic!

  14. Tara at Glossy EsquireAugust 17, 2012 at 3:05 PM

    Very, very well said, Nicole. It can be nerve racking enough as it is to put yourself out there to the world but if you are not the "norm" of skinny, pretty that just makes it even more difficult. For all the lady balls I have, the way "not perfect people" or blogs are perceived and treated can often have a direct effect on what I do, say, photo and publish. I struggle enough with my own day to day issues- I don't need that extra pressure. However, it is my role (and the role of every person like me) to force ourselves to get past our insecurities are really go there. By making ourselves known is the only way we can begin to effectively change the industry.

    On another note, I am with you on how even plus size brands minimize their own customers. Michael Kors is a great example. There is no advertising for that line and it lacks creativity. If I see one more peasant blouse, tented shirt or dolman sleeve from him I am going to rip my awesome hair out! Every time I see him pontificate on what 'the modern woman wants' on Project Runway I want to shake him and say, "We are modern women too! We want that too!" I think there are only so many peasant blouses and capris a designer can make and he has more than reached his lifetime limit!

    I appreciate brands like ASOS and H&M so much for finally figuring out that we want to be treated like everyone else. We want chic, modern clothes. I think it says a lot that these lines are not US based companies or designers.

  15. Commented over on IFB, but I wanted to bring my traffic here as well. Thank you for writing this. It is concise and well written, and it touches on a lot of what many of us have been feeling. It's also great that you took the commercial success angle, because at the end of the day, what sells is always what will dominate.

  16. You kick ass, girl. Love this.

  17. "But, where these varied voices become disenfranchised is when the blogging world, in all it's diversity, begins to mimic the values of traditional media"
    Spot on, I celebrate others successes but not when they begin to compromise themselves and fit a mold that ultimately abandons their original readers and viewers, only to monetize.

  18. mariell hjartesmil.August 17, 2012 at 7:58 PM

    i haven't been following this discussion as i'm not a fashion blogger and rarely read any as they make me feel complete and utter shit, but you are such a kick-ass person. i have known that for a long time now, but you are a reflected and highly intelligent woman. such an inspiration to all of us curvy ladies out here trying to make it in a thin world. it's not easy but when i read things like this i remember why i bother. the best of luck to you from london! mariell,

  19. Emily Kate - Capital StyleAugust 17, 2012 at 8:01 PM

    Nicolette, I found your blog through this post on IFB. Love what you had to say on this topic and definitely will be following you to hear what you have to say on others. Love finding new bloggers who are inspiring! Thanks for writing this!!

  20. I'm so sad how things went down over there. Taylor emailed me and we spoke about the whole thing too.

    What I think happened though, was that the article was the tipping point on how some people felt that IFB was acting lately, aka only representing those top tier bloggers. People are fed up with it to a certain degree. They want to see more diversity.

    That's why in the first apology letter, I asked how many of those top tier bloggers are IFB "members", I don't think any. But so it seems that the website is sometimes directed at them, or to get everyone else to be like them.

  21. I love this post. You touched on every point perfectly, and all of this needed to be said. Well done!

  22. I am not a huge fan of IFB because of the causal relationships they try to create: If you do this and that, then you will become a good aka famous? blogger. I know what a good blog needs, but not all good blogs are famous. and their tips on 'how to' are not that world shocking, so I stopped reading their articles.

    I wondered: why are those blogs so famous? and i came to the same conclusion as you did. the girls are drop death gorgeous, not like models, but like the perfect girl next door! they know the trends and their photos are insanely good. But i don't like blogs that become too good. I still need that reality factor and i think the blond salad (not a huge fan of her style) does that brilliantly. a blog like the glamourai becomes too professional and the reality factor is gone. it is almost like looking like an editorial.

    I realize that not a lot pr agencies know how to work with bloggers and i hate it when they don't get my fashion identity. In belgium quantity is more important than quality. I don't have the most readers, so they rather collaborate with a blog that has more readers. even is the quality and the integrity of the blogger is not that good. this neoliberal way of thinking will be backfiring for some brands. I have the feeling that not a lot of brands know what to do with me, they cannot put a label on me and for PR that is not a good thing.

    Why are you one of my favorite bloggers? because of your impeccable style and flaw less skin ;)! your smashing photo's, your life style, your smartness! because you stand out and because you have something interesting to say about fashion.

  23. I agree in almost all that you've said. We cannot blame the skinny beauty bloggers for it; fashion brands always seek the current beauty ideal and that fits what they want to advertise. As you say, being a different blogger 'has got a priced': the ones who doesn't fit the 'beauty standards' (and stating that this does not mean that we are not beautiful) have it more difficult to get the attention that, personally, I think we deserve (as I inclue myself n the list).

    I guess part of that is due to the erroneous belief about the clothes look better on skinny girls more than on chubby or curvy girls, but not so. For many years I have moved inside underground culture and urban tribes, for example, within the Goth subculture, is usually much wear underwear corsets ... Well, after comparing, thin girls with barely chest and more chubby girls, I concluded that the second ones were much more spectacular with corsets that the others. And I met really wonderful and beautiful skinny girls who has envy of my curves, to my own surprise.

    In short, and as it is said: never rains to everyone's taste. I think the first thing is to accept ourselves as we are able to show a good image to others, healthy and above all happy.


  24. A good post touching issues affecting some bloggers around the world. especially the non-conventional blogger.

  25. I have currently unfollowed IFB on all platforms.I did not expect that from them. That quote of yours sums up the general feeling. They put forth a shabbily informed post consisting of personal opinions and lack of understanding.I do appreciate Taylor's apology which seemed genuine, but the way they got defensive and highlighted the bullies in their open letter instead of addressing the real issue just did it for me. There is a huge fatshion/curvy/plus sized community out there.and to write off every one of them as lazy or undisciplined was wrong, offensive and plain idiotic. They have gained success now and they are following the mainstream industry in pretty much every way.

  26. I know you ussually blog about fashion and this is a little off subject but i love the pictures you take and i would love to know how you achieve some of the looks of your pictures would you do a blog about your pictures and how you create some of them

  27. Great post Nicolette. I haven't really looked at IFB for a long time simply because I've never felt that what they write about is relevant to me, as an Australian 'fatshion' blogger, when they seem to focus on the USA and 'top tier' bloggers. The blogosphere is always changing but recently it does seem that the reality style of blogging has been overlooked for 'professionalism'. The top tier blogs are like picking up a magazine, I miss the days of mirror selfies and those ugly tagging posts (well only if someone with better graphic design skills made them)...I guess what I'm saying is I miss the feeling of community, it is still there but it's a whole lot more competitive now.

  28. I couldn't agree more with you! I am not after collaborations or making a ton of money with my blog, but in Belgium sometimes it's a little frustrating to see that the blogs getting the most attention don't have the best content.

    "I realize that not a lot pr agencies know how to work with bloggers and i hate it when they don't get my fashion identity. "

    That reminds me of a PR agency who contacted me to do a collaboration with Weight Watchers! I don't think she had ever taken a look at my blog. lol

  29. Very objective point and one that I addressed wholeheartedly in my book Plus Size Girlz Gone Wild! because blogging/bloggers are a beast at times! Keep up the good work... This is my first time ever responding to a topic but I do check your site daily for your acerbic and prolific writing style... Thanks for encouraging me, even in my silence.

  30. Well said Nicolette! I can't wait to hear what you have to say about this & more during the panel. (and thanks for referencing my blog in this post!) xo

  31. I agree and the fact that they keep on repeating their tips! of course you should have great content and fabulous photos. But that doesn't mean that you will gain more readers. I hate their causal relationships! and yes I want to discover new fresh blogs too, not the ones you see everywhere. why don't they have something like blog to watch cf. belmodo

  32. It is hard not to do that! I realized that all of a sudden I was wearing certain trends and certain pieces. I was copying the famous bloggers and I was abandoning my own fashion identity. I never ever thought that that could happen to me! luckily it didn't last that long. I realized that i had to stay true to my fashion identity because it was a big part of my personality

  33. Really enjoyed reading your response! I guess maybe because I agreed with a lot of it haha! When I read a professional blog I feel like I have lost the reader behind it. It could be anyone so is it really a blog any more??

  34. Nicolette, thank you for this beautifully written post, and thank you for including me in your list of blogs. I had been following this whole fiasco and didn't really know what to say or how to say it. Thank you for addressing the community so eloquently and starting a conversation.

  35. i love this post, thank you nicolette. as a blogger who doesn't fit the typical norm, I think this is such an important conversation to have, and in a way, i thank IFB for bringing it up, even though it was poorly handled. i love how you pointed out all the different niche blogs, because that is the beauty of the internet, isn't it? that there is truly something for everyone, a community for everyone. one of the reasons i started blogging and deciding to put my body all over the internet was to bring another person who doesn't fit the norm into the mix and be a part of creating a diverse community since the fashion community in the "real world" can feel so harsh and ostracizing. you really nailed it here: "But, where these varied voices become disenfranchised is when the blogging world, in all it's diversity, begins to mimic the values of traditional media." i love the idea that blogging started as a real and authentic, "real world" alternative to fashion magazines. and if you look back at what fashion blogging was three years ago, it seems as though it was a lot less sophisticated then it is now- it's crazy where it has all gone to- basically, magazine level with model-like girls to boot. which is cool in one way that blogging has become that highly regarded and professional, but we also don't want to lose that authenticity that made fashion blogging so special in the first place. and diversity creates authenticity, because you don't see it in the mainstream media. that's why diversity in body type, race, religion, age, etc is so important to keep in the blogging community- it's what it's all about, really!- and i wish that the IFB article had acknowledged this.

    anyhoot i am looking forward to the continued conversation on this. thank for your post, and p.s. you're killing it in life, and i love it.


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